TRAVELOGUE: A Trip To Badagry And The Point Of Return
By Tanimu Umar
Twenty years ago, I passed through Badagry on my way to the Seme border but never ventured into the ancient town or its deeper history. Though I’d been near its storied shores, the experience remained elusive. Little did I know that two decades later, I would return under vastly different circumstances. In 1973, the Nigerian Government established the Administrative Staff College of Nigeria (ASCON) in Badagry, a pivotal institution aimed at training public servants and enhancing their capacity in governance and administration. Fifty-one years later, I was fortunate enough to be selected by my agency to attend training at ASCON, and my time there was nothing short of monumental.
ASCON, located in Topo-Badagry, has maintained its stellar reputation since its inception. The college is designed to impart essential knowledge and skills to public servants in various capacities. The lecturers, experts in their fields, delivered training with precision and a deep understanding of public sector needs. They covered a wide range of topics including ethical conduct, managerial skills, public procurement, and resource management, among others. Each session was carefully crafted to engage participants and provide actionable knowledge that could be applied in our respective roles within the public sector. Their unique teaching approach built not only capacity but confidence, equipping us with the tools necessary to face challenges in governance.
While ASCON was a remarkable part of my journey, it was the historical allure of Badagry that truly captivated me. Badagry, a coastal town situated over 70 kilometers from mainland Lagos, is not just a scenic spot but a historical powerhouse. During the 18th century, this seemingly peaceful coastal town served as a gateway for European traders involved in the trans-Saharan slave trade. Badagry’s strategic position made it an essential intermediary between European slave traders on the coast and the hinterland of West Africa. It became infamous as a major corridor through which enslaved Africans were shipped across the Atlantic, forever changing the course of millions of lives.
Our visit to Badagry would not have been complete without a tour of its historical landmarks. We began at the Badagry Heritage Museum, a solemn space filled with relics and artefacts from the trans-Atlantic slave trade. The museum showcased an array of exhibits-from rusty manacles that once bound slaves to worn-out artifacts used in trade exchanges. We were told bizarre stories of how of the forefathers of Nigeria were treated as inferior to mere commodities such as umbrellas (an umbrella was given in exchange of 40 human beings carried into slavery), medium-sized mirror (in exchange for 20 able-bodied men), a big canon gun was exchanged for 100 slaves, 10 slaves for coral beads, etc. It was a grim reminder of the inhumanity that thrived in those times, reducing human lives to mere commodities.
Just a short distance from the museum lies Gberefu Island, better known as the “Point of No Return.” This island served as a departure point for thousands of enslaved Africans being shipped off to unknown destinations. Once someone crossed this threshold, there was no coming back. The moment was symbolised by a well on the island, said to cause memory loss in those who drank from it. Slaves who consumed water from this well were believed to forget everything about their past, further cementing their fate as they embarked on their horrific journey across the Atlantic. Our tour guide, with an air of reverence, narrated these stories, evoking emotions that words fail to express.
One cannot visit Badagry without reflecting on the impact of Christianity in Nigeria. Badagry is, after all, the first place Christianity was preached in the country. The location where this happened is now marked by the Agiya Tree Monument in the center of Obada Market. The tree is gone, but the significance of the moment lingers, a testimony to the deep religious history intertwined with the town’s identity.
We also visited Nigeria’s first-ever storey building, a structure that has withstood the test of time. The foundation of the building was laid in 1842, and it was completed by 1845. Built by Reverend Henry Townsend of the Church Missionary Society (CMS), this iconic building once housed Samuel Ajayi Crowther, a returnee slave who became a bishop and translated the Bible into Yoruba. It’s almost unbelievable that 179 years after its construction, the building is still standing, a silent witness to the changes that have swept through Badagry over the centuries.
To wind down after such an emotionally charged day, we headed to Badagry’s famous Coconut Beach. The beach, located toward the border with Benin Republic, provided a much-needed contrast to the heavy historical undertones of the day. Surrounded by tall coconut trees, Coconut Beach is a slice of paradise. The ocean waves crashed against the shore with an almost hypnotic rhythm, while the gentle sea breeze cooled our skin. The beach was teeming with tourists and fun-seekers, eager to soak up the sun and enjoy the natural beauty of the coast. It was a joyful end to a journey that had taken us through some of the darkest chapters of human history.
Badagry’s history is both a blessing and a burden. It is a place of stunning natural beauty, filled with coconut groves and sandy beaches, but also a place haunted by the horrors of slavery. The town’s ability to honour its past while embracing its future is remarkable. My time in Badagry left an indelible mark on me, not just because of the knowledge growth I gathered at ASCON, but because of the town’s undeniable connection to a global history of struggle, resilience, and hope.
As I left Badagry, I reflected on the duality of my journey-one of capacity development at ASCON and one of emotional exploration of a painful past. Badagry has a way of weaving these narratives together, forcing visitors to confront the complexities of human history while appreciating the beauty that remains. My trip to Badagry and the Point of No Return is an experience I will carry with me for the rest of my life.
Tanimu writes from Gombe
